Let’s not beat around the bush: the Earth is struggling. Politically, financially, and—most critically—climatically. And when the climate suffers, so does everything we depend on… like our beloved food and wine.
Yes, wine. That glorious bottle you uncork after a long day is under threat.
Despite the challenges, winemakers have continued to deliver. Through the upheaval of the Covid-19 pandemic, rising excise taxes, and mounting climate instability, they’ve managed to produce quality wines year after year.
There’s so much they face behind the scenes—most of which we, as consumers, rarely see or understand.
Personally, I began noticing the effects of climate change during vertical tastings (that’s when you compare different vintages of the same wine—think time travel for your palate). From 2019 to 2024, the difference was stark.
Fewer vintages released. Entry-level wines weren’t quite hitting the mark.
Prices crept up while acidity levels soared—thanks to grapes ripening too fast in the heat.
New wine regions popped up like wild mushrooms, winemakers pivoted to hardier grape varieties, and fermentation methods started getting creative.
All signs point to one big culprit: climate change.
If you think I’m being dramatic, let me tell you about my garden.
From June to December 2024, I tried growing spinach and pumpkin. It was like parenting toddlers with jetpacks. The heat was relentless, pests came in droves, the sun played musical chairs, and the soil just couldn’t commit.
If that was me on a small scale, imagine what winemakers are up against on hectares of land.
I’d be lighting candles and saying prayers nightly.
I have mad respect for winemakers and the artistry they bring to the table.
The amount of skill, patience, and resilience it takes to produce a good bottle of wine is immense. It’s an art form, and one I deeply admire.
Wine isn’t just a drink. It’s resilience in a bottle. It’s a liquid love letter from soil to soul. It’s powerful.
So, where does that leave us?
What should we be drinking in this new wine world? Two words: cool climate.
Start cozying up to wines from breezier regions like:
- Agulhas Wine Triangle
- Constantia
- Walker Bay
- Elgin
- My personal favourite: Hemel-en-Aarde
Also, look out for bush vine wines. These hardy vines thrive in heat, naturally shading the grapes and slowing down ripening.
Mullineux Wines in the Swartland do this beautifully.
So do the old vine Chenin Blancs from Darling.
And a special shoutout to Survivor Wines—they’re doing things right.
Here’s a sobering fact:
Over 80% of South Africa’s land is classified as semi-arid to arid.
Water stress is real.
What does that mean for wine and food production?
Do we rethink what we grow?
Do we adapt or go broke trying?
It’s a conversation we’re only just beginning to have.
In the meantime:
- Support local.
- Sip with intention.
- Toast to the unsung legends behind every bottle.
Cheers!
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