By MO ISMAIL
Forget the tourist checklist. This little corner of Saigon might just be the holiday within your holiday.
From the Bay to Vietnam and beyond, 041Online is taking readers along for the adventure. In this new travel series, Mo Ismail will be sharing her experiences of life abroad, uncovering interesting destinations, hidden gems, local culture and the little discoveries that make travelling so memorable. Expect personal stories, practical recommendations and a distinctly South African perspective as she takes us exploring.
There is a particular kind of magic to living somewhere that people visit without ever quite discovering. I live in Thảo Điền, Ho Chi Minh City, and while many visitors make a beeline for District 1, the rooftop bars, the famous landmarks and the late-night chaos of Bùi Viện Street, I find myself wondering whether they are missing one of Saigon’s most interesting neighbourhoods.
To me, Thảo Điền is a little like Cape Town without the ocean (but there’s a river). It has that same feeling of having a bit of everything within reach: good food, beautiful little cafés, stylish boutiques, creative people, places to socialise and enough hidden corners to keep you exploring. It is not quite the city centre, and that is precisely the appeal.
The Thumb, the Bubble or Just Thảo Điền?
Thảo Điền has developed a personality of its own. You might hear people refer to it as a bubble, a little expat enclave or even “the thumb”. The thumb nickname is one I find particularly interesting, although its exact origin is difficult to pin down. It seems best treated as informal neighbourhood slang rather than an official name with a documented history.
The bubble label is easier to understand. Thảo Điền has a distinctly international atmosphere, with Vietnamese businesses and culture sitting alongside global food, independent designers, international schools and a well-established community of foreign residents. But describing it only as an expat bubble misses the bigger picture. Vietnamese entrepreneurs, artists, chefs and designers are also part of what makes the neighbourhood tick.
And while it may feel like a world of its own, it is still connected to the energy of the wider city. You can head into central Saigon when you want the full urban experience, then return to Thảo Điền and settle into a completely different pace.
Come Hungry. Leave Happy.
If there is one thing Thảo Điền does exceptionally well, it is food.
The neighbourhood brings together Western comfort food, international dining and Vietnamese flavours in a way that makes choosing where to eat almost as difficult as deciding what to order.
You can spend one afternoon over coffee and brunch, another discovering Vietnamese dishes, and another turning dinner into a long, social affair.
One of my personal favourites is The Crab Shack. If seafood is your thing, this is a spot worth knowing about. Think generous seafood spreads, crab, prawns and a lively, hands-on dining experience that makes a meal feel like an occasion rather than just another stop on your day.
Then there is Lola’s, a great option when you want a relaxed lunch or somewhere to linger over good food without feeling rushed. It has that comfortable, easy-going quality that makes a place part of your routine rather than somewhere you visit just once.
And those are only two names on a much longer list. Thảo Điền has cafés for slow mornings, restaurants for date nights, bars for catching up with friends and social spaces where a quick drink can turn into an entire evening. The beauty is that you do not need to plan a full expedition across the city to find something worth trying.
Your Holiday Does Not Have to Only Involve Sightseeing
One of the things I love most about Thảo Điền is that you can have a genuinely good day without visiting a single major tourist attraction.
Fancy doing something different? Book a creative workshop. The neighbourhood offers opportunities to try pottery and ceramic painting at Atelier de Zeynep, explore fragrance-making at NOTE – The Scent Lab, or experiment with flowers and arrangements through creative studios such as Wild Bloom. Workshop Hub also offers hands-on activities ranging from candle-making to flower art and other crafts.
Jewellery-making, floral design, candles, ceramics and other creative experiences give you a reason to slow down and actually do something rather than simply photograph it.
These activities are ideal for couples, friends, solo travellers or anyone who wants to take home something more personal than another souvenir bought from a crowded shop. Imagine spending the afternoon making your own perfume, creating a floral arrangement or painting ceramics, then heading out for dinner afterwards.
That, to me, sounds like a really good day while on holiday or just existing in everyday life.
A Neighbourhood With More Than Pretty Cafés
It would be easy to reduce Thảo Điền to its restaurants, coffee shops and stylish interiors, but there is more to explore.
There are quieter residential streets, local places of worship and Buddhist temples that offer a different perspective on the city. Take the time to explore respectfully, appreciate the architecture and observe the everyday rhythms of local life.
Shopping is another reason to wander. Beyond the familiar international labels, the neighbourhood has independent boutiques, concept stores and Vietnamese designers whose work deserves attention. Places such as OHQUAO showcase local design, while other independent shops bring together fashion, art, homeware and lifestyle products.
For anyone interested in discovering Vietnamese creativity, these spaces are worth exploring. You may find a piece of jewellery, a garment or an object for your home that feels far more meaningful than a mass-produced souvenir.
The fun is in the discovery. Turn down a side street, step into a shop that catches your eye, or spend an hour somewhere you had not planned to visit. Thảo Điền rewards that sort of curiosity to the full extent!
And Then There Is Bùi Viện…
Let’s be honest: Bùi Viện has its place in the tourist attractions of Vietnam. If you want loud music, crowds, bars packed close together and a nightlife experience that feels unmistakably tourist-oriented, it delivers exactly that.
But is it the only way to experience Saigon? Absolutely not.
Personally, I think the idea that you have to spend your evenings in District 1 to experience the city’s social scene is a little overrated. There is something appealing about being able to enjoy a good meal, discover a cocktail bar, catch up with friends or simply sit somewhere comfortable without feeling that you need to keep moving to the next attraction.
Thảo Điền offers a different kind of energy. It can be lively without always feeling hectic, social without being overwhelming, and stylish without requiring every outing to become an event.
It is not about declaring one neighbourhood better than another. It is about recognising that Saigon has different personalities, and visitors deserve to experience more than one of them.
The Little Gem Hiding in Plain Sight
Thảo Điền may not always be the first place that comes to mind when people plan a trip to Ho Chi Minh City, but perhaps that is part of its charm.
It is a neighbourhood where you can eat your way through different cuisines, spend an afternoon learning a new skill, discover Vietnamese designers, visit a temple, find a quiet café and end the day with friends over dinner. You can make plans or simply let the day unfold.
For me, it feels like having a little holiday destination right on my doorstep. It has the variety of a city, the comfort of a neighbourhood and enough personality to make it feel distinct from the tourist centre.
So, if you are planning a trip to Saigon, by all means, explore District 1. See the landmarks, experience the energy and make your own memories. But leave some room in your itinerary to cross over to Thảo Điền.
Come for lunch. Stay for a workshop. Browse the boutiques. Find a temple. Have dinner at The Crab Shack or any of the other amazing spots and see where the evening takes you.
You might arrive expecting a quick visit and leave wondering why you did not stay longer.
And if someone asks me what Thảo Điền is like, I will probably keep giving them the same answer: imagine Cape Town without the ocean, tucked into a corner of Saigon, with excellent food, creative energy and a whole lot to discover.
It may be a little thumb on the map, but it has a personality far bigger than its size.
Follow my journey as a South African in Vietnam on YouTube @mofirefly911.
About the Contributor
Mo Ismail is a former journalist and photographer turned educator. Born in Kariega, Nelson Mandela Bay, she now lives abroad, sharing her love of travel, culture and discovering the hidden gems that make each destination special.
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