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Lelethu Zondani | 041Wine

Over the past decade, stainless steel tanks have made a steady and noticeable entrance into South Africa’s wine scene. We’ve had the pleasure of seeing a wide range of varietals tested in these tanks, but one grape that consistently shines in this setup is Chardonnay.

Originating in California and parts of Europe, stainless steel fermentation became a standard winemaking practice by the 1960s and ’70s. But why has it become so popular in South African wineries only in recent years?

Nearly every wine farm I’ve visited lately has at least experimented with this “new age” method — and it makes sense. Stainless steel fermentation tanks are easier to clean and maintain. They also reduce wine loss thanks to their low porosity (compared to oak barrels) and offer precise temperature control during fermentation. Perhaps best of all, they are flavour-neutral, allowing the natural characteristics of the grape to truly shine.

But here’s the thing — as much as I appreciate the purity and consistency that stainless steel offers, something about it feels, well… a bit sterile. The process is so controlled, so airtight, that it drastically limits oxidation. Yet, when we pour a glass of wine, we’re told to let it breathe — to aerate and invite oxygen to coax out its best qualities. Isn’t that ironic?

Still, steel-aged wines do have storage perks. These wines can be preserved for years, well-protected from oxygen and environmental shifts.

Now, let’s talk about oak barrel ageing — a cornerstone of traditional winemaking. Personally, I love the subtle influence of French oak, especially in a red blend or a well-balanced Chardonnay. When the barrel has been used more than once, the result is a gentle kiss of oak: soft vanilla notes that are downright mouthwatering.

Some argue that barrels now serve more of an aesthetic purpose — lined up in cellars like museum pieces — while methods like concrete eggs, clay amphorae, and stainless steel tanks take centre stage. It’s true that oak aging can be time-consuming and unpredictable. It’s a bit like winemaking with a blindfold — you never quite know how the grape will interact with the wood. And unpredictability? That can be expensive.

But winemakers are nothing if not inventive. Many now use a hybrid method known as “barrel downs” — fermenting the juice in steel tanks before ageing it in oak. The result is a seamless blend of precision and tradition. And as a consumer, you’d likely never know the difference.

Fermentation is the heartbeat of winemaking, and the vessel used can dramatically influence a wine’s aroma, texture, and flavour. So here’s the big question:

Should we sacrifice history and tradition in favour of convenience and control?

I’d love to hear your thoughts.

Cheers!