Veronica Charles
Herbal skincare and soap making are growing in popularity, but the terminology can be confusing, with terms like infusion, tincture, extract and glycerite often used interchangeably despite working in very different ways. Understanding these differences is key to choosing the right method and creating more effective, intentional botanical products.
What Are Herbal Preparations
Herbal preparations are different methods used to extract the beneficial properties of plants using water, oil, alcohol or glycerine.
Each method extracts different compounds, which is why choosing the correct preparation is important depending on your intended use.
Herbal Teas (Water Infusions for Drinking)
What it is:
A light herbal preparation made by steeping herbs in hot water.
Best for:
Leaves and flowers
Examples:
Chamomile, peppermint, rooibos
Uses:
Internal wellness, relaxation and digestive support
In skincare:
Can be used as facial rinses, toners or as part of the water phase in formulations
In soap making:
Limited use due to the high pH environment of soap, but can be added for a layered complexity to your soap.
Decoctions (Stronger Water-Based Extraction)
What it is:
A stronger herbal preparation made by simmering harder plant materials in water for at least 15 minutes.
Best for:
Roots, bark and seeds
Examples:
Ginger, cinnamon
Uses:
Deeper herbal extraction, hair rinses and bath soaks
In soap making:
Not ideal, as heat and lye can degrade many of the beneficial compounds, but if added correctly it can give a layered complexity to your soap.
Oil Infusions
What it is:
Herbs infused into oils to extract fat-soluble plant compounds.
Best for:
Flowers and leaves
Examples:
Calendula oil, lavender-infused oil
Uses:
Skincare, balms, massage oils and salves
In soap making:
Highly recommended. Oil infusions add skin benefits, enhance formulation quality and allow you to create more intentional, botanical-based products.
Tinctures
What it is:
An alcohol-based extraction that draws out a wide range of plant compounds, including volatile aromatic components.
Why tinctures are powerful:
They provide a deep, broad-spectrum extraction, capture delicate plant compounds and can be made using fresh botanicals. They also have a long shelf life.
In soap making:
Tinctures are often overlooked, but when used intentionally, they can add a unique layer to your formulation.
The alcohol evaporates during the soap making process, while the extraction medium helps introduce botanical complexity into the soap.
Although not all delicate plant compounds survive the high pH of saponification, tinctures can still:
- Add aromatic depth
- Support a layered botanical formulation
- Capture the essence of fresh plant material
Best practice:
Use in small amounts, add at light trace and combine with infused oils and essential oils.
Important note:
Tinctures in soap are best understood as supportive and experiential rather than fully therapeutic.
Dried Botanicals
What it is:
Whole herbs that have been dried for preservation and use.
Uses:
Decoration, mild exfoliation and infusions
In soap making:
Commonly used to enhance visual appeal and texture. Some botanicals may discolour over time.
Extracts
What it is:
Concentrated plant extracts made using water, alcohol or glycerine.
Uses:
Targeted skincare benefits and active formulations
In soap making:
Limited effectiveness due to the high pH environment. Extracts are better suited to creams, lotions and serums.
Glycerites
What it is:
A herbal extract made using vegetable glycerine instead of alcohol.
Benefits:
Gentle, alcohol-free and suitable for sensitive applications
In skincare:
Excellent for toners, serums, lotions and other hydrating formulations. Glycerine acts as a humectant, helping to draw moisture into the skin.
In soap making:
Glycerine is naturally produced during the soap making process and contributes to the moisturising feel of handmade soap.
Glycerites can be used in small amounts, however:
- The high pH of soap reduces the effectiveness of delicate plant compounds
- The additional glycerine contribution is relatively small compared to what is already formed during saponification
For this reason, glycerites are best considered a supportive addition in soap rather than a primary active ingredient.
Best use:
Glycerites are far more effective in lotions, toners and water-based skincare where their hydrating and botanical properties remain intact.
Key Takeaways
If you are making soap:
Focus on oil infusions, dried botanicals and optionally tinctures for added complexity.
If you are making skincare:
Use extracts, glycerites and infusions for more targeted and effective results.
Final Thoughts
Understanding herbal preparations allows you to move beyond simply adding ingredients and instead begin formulating with intention.
It is the difference between making soap and crafting a botanical product with depth, purpose and identity.
Want to Learn More?
Should you wish to learn more about soap making, workshops or formulation, you are welcome to get in touch:
Veronica
072 641 5133
fairy@greenfairyproducts.co.za
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